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Tea and the Working Class
The working class drank tea in a different
cultural context than the bourgeoisie. Thousands worked in the factories
that were owned, or managed, by the husbands of the women holding at home
teas. They did not have enough money to allow women to stay at home all
day.
Tea, for the working class was a substance that constituted a break from
work, just as many office workers in the United States have cigarette or
coffee breaks. It was a brief time of rest to socialize with other
workers, and collect the energy to finish the day. Not only was it a
break from work, but the caffeine and sugar in the hot tea gave the
impression that one had eaten something. Tea made any food seem like a hot
meal, and was drunk in large quantities amongst the working class as beer
or ale had been drunk previously. Why the switch from the traditional
alcoholic beverages to tea, a beverage that had been a foreign luxury for
the past two centuries?
Tea had been consumed by the working classes since the eighteenth century,
as is indicated by a tract written in 1765 against the usage of tea, as it
created much expense for the kingdom in that it was, "...the common luxury
of every chambermaid, sempstress and tradesman's wife, both in town and
country..." (Swift 1765: 199).
However, tea did not become widely available and affordable to the working
classes until the middle to late nineteenth century. By the 1830's tea was
a necessary "luxury" for many of the working class (Harrison 1971: 38). The 1870's and
1880's marked the introduction of cheap black tea from Sri Lanka on the
market in Britain. This tied with the increase in trade due to the tea
clipper ships that began in the 1830's and 1840's, meant that the price of
tea was relatively low. A new emphasis on morality included a popular
temperance movement in the middle of the nineteenth century, and the
working classes needed to find a cheap substitute for alcohol. Inexpensive
tea arrived at exactly the right moment in history to take this place.
The temperance movement had its beginnings in 1791 when a number of
Quakers joined forces with others against slavery and abstained from
consumption of sugar and rum, as both of these substances were produced by
slave labor. The movement expanded to include the abstinence from all
alcoholic beverages. Tea was chosen as one of the alternative beverages to
alcohol possibly in connection with Catherine of Braganza's previous
choice of tea as a substitute for alcohol.
Previous to the eighteenth century alcohol was one of the few
non-contaminated beverages available to the working class. Water sources
were often impure and difficult to obtain, and milk was not properly
treated so as to prevent the growth of bacteria. Water supplies were being
cleaned in the early 1800's and pipelines made clean water more available
to a larger number of people than ever before. By the 1840's soda water
and ginger beer became available, although costlier than tea. The
temperance movement had become a powerful movement among the working class
in the 1840's when per capita tea consumption rise sharply (Harrison 1971: 38-100).
The diet of the working class was extremely bad in the nineteenth century.
The higher wages of the eighteenth century did not continue into the next
century, and malnutrition among the working class was a large problem, as
the primary sources of nutrition were bread, potatoes and strong tea. By
1871 the average British person consumed about four pounds of tea in a
year (Drummond and Wilbraham 1939:
390).
Tea drinking among the working classes, was very different from the
complex set of etiquettes surrounding tea in the bourgeoisie. There was a
measure of emulation of the bourgeoisie on the part of the working classes
both in the switch from alcohol to tea, and in the drinking of tea over
other available beverages. However, the way in which tea was drunk, and
the meanings surrounding the substance were completely different for the
working class.
The high tea evolved to take the place of dinner when a proper hot meal
could not be afforded. High tea was a family meal, and took place anytime
between 5:00 and 7:00 pm. It was much larger than the few sandwiches and
pastries eaten for an afternoon tea in the bourgeoisie. One or two small
hot dishes were served along with cold chicken, game, or ham, salad, and
cakes or tarts. Tea became part of a larger meal and faded into the
background, often relegated to from the table to the sideboard. Tea was
not a luxury commodity to members of the working class, but a daily
necessity.
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