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Afternoon Tea in Britain
Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford is often
credited with the invention of the tradition of afternoon tea in the early
1840's. Traditionally dinner was not served until 8:30 or 9:00 in the
evening and the Duchess often became hungry, especially in the summer when
dinner was served even later. She ordered a small meal of bread, butter,
and other niceties, such as cakes, tarts, and biscuits, to be brought
secretly to her boudoir. When she was exposed she was not ridiculed, as
she had feared, but her habit caught on and the concept of a small meal,
of niceties and perhaps tea, became popular and eventually known as
"afternoon tea" (Ukers 1935).
Obviously the origins of the well known British tradition of afternoon tea
cannot be credited to only one woman, but evolved over a period of time,
as many cultural customs do.
Women were first introduced to tea on a wide scale when Lyon's tea house
opened and not only served women tea, but even hired stylish young women
to serve it. This provided a place for women, accompanied by a male
escort, to go and visit with one another in an acceptable atmosphere (Ukers 1935: 414). Women were also
served tea in the London tea gardens of the early 1730's. Tea gardens were
outdoor gardens with flowered walks and music for dancing. They opened in
April or May and remained open throughout the summer until August or
September. Tea was not the only beverage served, but was one of the most
commonly drunk (Ukers 1935: 389).
Unlike Lyon's tea house, tea gardens were not public places. One had to
pay to get in, and the working class was not admitted.
In 1819 the Tea Dance became popular, and continued through World War II.
Friends and acquaintances gathered between 5:00 and 6:30 pm, and table and
chairs would be set up around a dance floor. Tea and snacks were served at
the tables while others danced (Smith 1966). It was perhaps the Tea
Dance, and not the Duchess of Bedford's afternoon snacks, that were the
direct precursor to the tradition of afternoon tea, although the Duchess
may have been one of the first to hold afternoon teas.
By the mid 1800's the most of the coffee houses had evolved into exclusive
clubs, each geared towards a certain segment of the population. Women were
allowed in tea shops and tea gardens, but only with a male companion.
However, while the men were out in the clubs for the mid-day meal, or in
the afternoons and early evenings, the women could not frequent any of the
public establishments to visit with other women. As a result women invited
other women to their homes.
Increasing industrialization and urbanization created changes in British
culture. In the pre-industrial home, from 1700, when tea started to become
more widely available, to 1815, three quarters of the population lived in
a rural setting, and were farmers. Over the course of this period
increasing numbers of people moved to urban areas to work and live. A
middle class, or bourgeoisie, grew out of the new economic opportunities
of industrialization. The bourgeoisie spent large amount of money on
consumer goods such as tea. An increase in real wages for the working
class enabled them to emulate the bourgeoisie as far as was economically
feasible (Williams 1987: 162-164).
A stronger ideal of the family and the home was created by a revival of
moral reform, paternal authority, and sexual repression. The bourgeois
woman's identity became connected with the home and she was given the
responsibility of creating a genteel atmosphere in which the man could
feel in control. The issue of control was important in that the man's
position in the public sphere was often changing and unstable as
increasing industrialization changed the roles of production. Women were
educated to create this home environment, and to not work outside the
home. In spite of this ideal, however, many working class women had to
work to support their families. Most worked in domestic service or the
textile industry. The working woman was perceived as "contaminated and
sickening," in opposition to the middle class woman who was pure, but
sick, and the upper class woman who was weak and delicate (Williams 1987:
175). There is an obvious correlation to the amount of contact each class
of woman had with the outside world, and how pure and ladylike they were
considered to be. A lady was too delicate to go out into the world alone
and, therefore, had to entertain and be entertained in the private sphere,
or be escorted by a protective man.
The woman controlled the social life of the household. She arranged
dinners, at homes, teas, and other social situations. Conversation parties
imitating the French salon were also popular starting in around the 1750's
(Stenton 1957: 270). All of these
activities were centered on improving one's social standing in the
community. The relationships of children were carefully controlled,
especially in ensuring proper marriages.
When afternoon tea, and other new social activities of the middle and
upper classes, developed is not clear, although in 1842, a well known
actress named Fanny Kemble first heard of afternoon tea, and did not
believe the custom had been practiced prior to that date (Ukers 1935: 405). By the middle of the
nineteenth century, and Fanny Kemble's first afternoon tea, the complex
set of rules and etiquette surrounding the social customs of women
visiting each other for tea.
The at home tea was a common practice. After deciding on a day of the week
to hold at home hours, and send announcements to friends, relatives, and
acquaintances. On that particular day of the week one would remain at home
all day and receive visitors. Some entertainment might be provided for the
guests, but usually conversation, after the model of the French salon, was
the primary entertainment. Tea and cakes, sandwiches, or other niceties
were be served. If sent an at home notice it was expected that unless
regrets were sent that all who received a notice would attend. There was
at least one person holding an at home day on any given day, and social
ties were established as women saw each other almost every day at
different houses (Smith 1966:
12).
A system of codes was followed during this formal social interaction.
There were three types of formal social visits. The first type was to wish
congratulations or condolences on the hostess when appropriate. A card was
left with the message, and the visitor may or may not have been received.
The ceremonial visit was brief, and when another visitor was announced the
ceremonial guest, usually an acquaintance whose visit would increase the
social standing of one of the parties involved, would excuse themselves
and retreat. The third type of visit was that of friendship. A friend
would only visit during the appointed at home hours, but the rules of
behavior were less strict. For example, the friend was not expected to
leave if another guest arrived, as one of the functions of the tea was to
socialize with a group of friends. (Smith 1966: 13-14).
When tea was served the hostess sat at one end of the table and supervised
its pouring for her guests. The eldest daughter of the household, or the
closest friend of the hostess, served coffee or chocolate if it was
desired (Smith 1966: 76). It is
interesting to note that the division of serving privileges is indicative
of the varying importance of these three beverages at this time. Tea was a
valuable commodity, and stored in locked tea caddies for which only the
woman of the household held the key. In allowing the eldest daughter, or
friend, to serve the other beverages, and reserving the privilege of
serving of tea to only herself, she sets levels of social significance.
This is an interesting parallel to the lord of the house serving the tea
in China. In both cases it is the host with the most power who serves the
tea, in spite of the gender differences. Men in nineteenth century Britain
were higher on the public scale of social hierarchies, but the woman was
in charge of the household, and creating the genteel atmosphere connected
with formal social visits. As a result she was more powerful within the
house than the man. Even when the British "lord" of the house was present
it was the woman's responsibility to serve tea.
The hostess also adds the sugar and milk or lemon to the tea for the
guest. These substances were common and inexpensive enough to serve often
and to many guests. However, the cultural legacy from when both tea and
sugar were rare and expensive luxury goods, created a situation in which
the hostess desired, or was expected, to be in control of the amount
consumed. When sugar and tea were first introduced only the aristocracy
were able to possess them. They displayed their power and wealth by
consuming these rare goods (Mintz
1985). Tea and sugar were more common by the 1800's, but as consumable
luxuries they still suggested power and wealth. The upper classes wealthy
enough to hire servants had them serve the tea and guests were allowed to
add their own sugar, milk or lemon to the tea. By releasing control over
tea and sugar the upper classes demonstrated their wealth and ability to
buy as much of these commodities as desired. This asserted their social
standing through the careless consumption of luxury goods.
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